What makes Australian South Sea pearls so precious

From royalty to red carpets, Australian South Sea pearls have made their mark around the world. But it’s not until you’ve seen where they come from that you can appreciate just how precious they are, writes Lisa Perkovic.

Blink and you’d miss the buoys bobbing on Cygnet Bay. From the air, that is. Western Australia’s Dampier Peninsula is a swirl of azure sea and white sand passing beneath our wings. But as Air Kimberley’s Cessna 210 banks low and turns toward the coast, the floats appear. The buoys are only pinpricks from my bird’s-eye view. But the bounty below has put this Kimberley bay on the map.

Cygnet Bay Pearls

Flush with nutrients from king tides and pollutant-free oceans, the sheltered waterways of Australia’s North West are perfect breeding grounds for the Pinctada maxima, one of the world’s most sought-after pearl oysters. It was quite the allure for the Brown family, who arrived in Cygnet Bay in the 1940s and set about pioneering Australian pearl farming – from a pontoon and beach shacks. Flying in on a day tour, it’s clear things have come a long way.

A well-nourished treasure trove

The plane kicks up dust on our red dirt runway in the middle of nowhere. From here, a quick drive through the bush takes us to the Browns’ Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, where Western Australia’s most remote boutique beckons. Jewellery cases hold globes of all shapes and sizes, some paired with diamonds, others left to shine all on their own. Before I get too wrapped up in princess strands and teardrop pendants, it’s time to understand where these beauties come from.

Visiting this part of the state is not just about buying a pearl – it’s about understanding the forces, both natural and human-assisted, that go into creating these prized possessions. I begin my visit with a ‘Sea Safari’ beyond the calm waters of the bay, where 12-metre tides charge past the tiny islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago.

The water eddies and swirls all the way down to Cygnet Bay, where the sheltered oyster lines are well fed by the nutrients swept their way. Wind and salt-sprayed, I peer down at the oyster nets: a treasure trove quietly growing below the surface of the sea.

Pearling history and process

Back ashore, I get a crash course in pearling from Terry Hunter, Cygnet Bay born and bred, who takes us through the history of both the Brown family and, long before their arrival here, his own Bardi Jawi people.

I discover the intensive, manual process of seeding, cleaning and monitoring the oysters before walking to the hatchery. Here, Terry selects a Pinctada maxima from a small tank, carefully prying open the shell halves. His nimble fingers dig through the mollusc and pearl meat, before slowly popping a pearl out of its sack. I lean in, eager to catch the moment the pearl is ‘born’… at least, that’s how it feels as I await for the unveiling. It’s remarkably quick, and Hunter’s assessment is even speedier: “It’s a dud.”

Pearls: unpredictable and plentiful

I almost expect him to throw it over his shoulder. Pearl farming isn’t predictable – it’s nature at work. Sometimes grade-A pearls pop out; at other times nothing comes from the delicate work and tender love and care each oyster receives.

Our oyster may not have borne fruit, but at the boutique, it’s clear the sea’s bounty is still plentiful. I’m soon swooning over a strand of pearls fit for a queen. The natural Keshi pearls steal my heart for their freeform shapes, though a single pearl-drop pendant is also on my wish- list.

A pretty penny for pearl meat

For those not here to buy pearls, the Cygnet Bay restaurant serves a rare treasure, too. Pearl meat fetches upwards of $100 per kilogram fresh in Australia, but soars to $400 dried in Asia.

For those spending the night, glamping safari tents and a clifftop Master Pearlers Private Retreat are the stuff of star gazers’ dreams – there’s nothing between you and the ocean in this abode, once the Brown family’s home. There are also renovated pearler shacks and a campground on site.

My day ends with a flight back along the Dampier Peninsula, the red Kimberley cliffs blazing in the glow of an Indian Ocean sunset. There’s a pearl in my pocket (carefully gift wrapped, of course). It’s a final reminder nature might be raw and wild, but it’s also full of beauty.

How to tell if a pearl is real

Lustre

It’s the most important virtue. Of all precious gems, only pearls have lustre. It describes the radiant quality of the surface as light reflects through the countless layers of nacre, as if coming from deep within the pearl. Australian South Sea pearls have the most naturally illuminating lustre of all pearl types; it will never fade and requires no additional treatment.

Complexion

While a pearl with a flawless surface is exceptionally rare, the quality of complexion is influenced by the number and size of imperfections and their degree of visibility.

Shape

Perfect pearls come in all shapes and sizes. These include the incredibly rare, perfectly round pearls and unique shapes, such as baroque and circle pearls, that induce creativity in unique jewellery designs. Round, teardrop, oval and button shapes are extremely high in demand.

Colour

Typically mirroring the overtones of the pearl shell, Australian South Sea pearls come in a variety of natural colours including white, silver and cream. Look closely enough and some exhibit pink, blue and even green hues. They mirror the uniqueness of the shell they once laid in. While colour is a very personal choice, white with pink overtones is the most prized variety.

Size

Measured in millimetres by width, size is the last of the assets to consider. Australian South Sea pearls, blessed with a naturally thick nacre, are the largest of all the world’s pearls. They typically range from 11mm to 16mm. Highly prized yet exceptionally rare pearls of up to 20mm are also occasionally found.

The relative softness of pearls means they need special care. Store pearls separately in a soft pouch and apply perfume, cosmetics and hairspray before putting them on.

Australian designers

Whether you’re on the streets of Broome or shopping closer to home, high-end jewellery brands (just like pearls) have their own special style. Here are a few Australian designers to put on your radar.

Paspaley

Paspaley took Australian South Sea pearls to the world, producing pristine cultured pearls and elegant jewellery designs that have become a household name.

Allure Pearls

An old Broome pearling shed was the original Allure Pearl outlet. Today, the elegant boutique sells pieces that draw from nature in design, reimagined in pearl, gold and Argyle diamonds. alluresouthseapearls.com.au

Musson Jewellers

Synonymous with exquisite design, Sydney-based Musson makes beautiful pieces using Australian pearls. Think Mediterranean- inspired gold pearl drop earrings or Cabochon gemstone and pearl cuffs.