With four mountains to ski and board on, Aspen Snowmass delivers winter overload, writes Helen Hayes.
You can almost hear the snow snap, crackle and pop as the sun’s rays do their early morning stretch out of the Roaring Fork Valley and up Aspen Mountain. We have ridden up on the Silver Queen Gondola, and click into skis and snowboards, ready to enjoy a private run before the resort opens. This is First Tracks, and we are like thoroughbreds at the start gate as we look down the run, perfectly groomed and so alluring with Aspen glittering down below. Being the first to carve tracks on freshly groomed snow is ridiculously satisfying, and I must admit, there is whooping, hollering and a few woohoos as we point downhill and let loose down Bellissimo, into Copper, then home on Little Nell, puffed and elated when we slide to a standstill out front of The Little Nell Hotel. What a perfect start to the day.
Best locations for beginner, intermediate and advanced skiers
A snow holiday in Aspen Snowmass is brilliant every day, with skiers and snowboarders spoiled for choice. There are four mountains to choose from, all accessible on one ticket. Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands and Aspen Mountain are clustered around Aspen, with Snowmass around 20 minutes away. For families with little snow bunnies just starting out, Buttermilk and Snowmass are the best choices, mostly thanks to the gentler terrain and fantastic facilities such as the award-winning The Treehouse Adventure Center at Snowmass and The Hideaway at Buttermilk.
Intermediates will be able to frolic everywhere, while those seeking advanced terrain will have plenty of steeps, chutes and glades at Aspen Mountain, with the new Hero’s terrain a glade-lover’s dream. Aspen Highlands has its famous Highland Bowl, with the hike up no deterrent for fans, and at Snowmass, the Hanging Valley Wall and the Cirque are the most challenging. Terrain park lovers are not forgotten, with Buttermilk the place to go to ride the rails and other features. Buttermilk is home to the thrilling, adrenaline-inducing X Games, after all.
Where to stay in Aspen
A great time to book your next Aspen Snowmass snow venture is right now. Mogul Ski World has a number of specials for the 2025/26 ski season, at some of the best accommodation in town. Without a doubt, the most luxurious property in Aspen is The Little Nell Hotel. It is the only ski-in, ski-out hotel in Aspen, with impeccable service that keeps guests coming back time and time again. With its direct access to Aspen Mountain, along with the in-demand Element 47 (silver), and the fun après hangout, Ajax Tavern, The Little Nell is one of the best ski hotels in the world.
The Gant is best for those wanting a convenient enclave with all the resort services and amenities. It has a huge number of repeat guests for a reason. For lovers of European-style lodging, Hearthstone House is just two blocks from the centre of Aspen – so easy for dining out. Lovers of history will want to stay at Hotel Jerome, an Aspen icon since 1889 with a long list of celebrity guests at both the hotel and the legendary J-Bar. If you love a rooftop bar, the W Aspen is the place for you. Its rooftop WETDeck is lively and features 360-degree views over this sparkling Rocky Mountain city that inspired John Denver to croon all about his Rocky Mountain Highs.
Where to stay in Snowmass
With a treasure trove of ski-in, ski-out accommodation and an astonishing 1335ha of skiable terrain, Snowmass offers more places to ski and snowboard than the other three mountains combined. As for where to stay, Mogul Ski World have you sorted this season. Laurelwood Studios are for those who might want to cook a meal or two, with each studio apartment featuring a full kitchen. If proximity to everything is key, The Crestwood is a slope-side condominium hotel in the heart of Snowmass Village.
True luxury ski-in, ski-out residences, Viceroy Snowmass is elevated in every day. Apart from easy access to the slopes, spoil yourself with a treatment at its full-service spa and boost your energy levels with impeccable slopeside dining. No matter where you stay, you’ll have access to myriad restaurants and bars around Aspen and Snowmass, with every variety of cuisine at your fingertips along with vibrant après- ski locations where you can raise a glass to toast your memorable Aspen Snowmass experience.
Aspen Mountain
Aspen Snowmass is home to four world-class mountains – Snowmass, Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, and Buttermilk – offering over 5,600 acres of skiable terrain, eight terrain parks, and more than 330 trails, all served by over 40 lifts. On Aspen Mountain, the Hero’s terrain – opened in the 2023–24 season – marked the mountain’s first major expansion in nearly 40 years, adding 153 acres and increasing the mountain’s skiable terrain by over 20%. Now entering its second full season, Hero’s offers a mix of glades, steeps, and rolling terrain, along with spectacular views of the Roaring Fork Valley below.
First tracks on Aspen Mountain
‘First Tracks’ on Aspen Mountain are now offered daily at 8:00 a.m. during the winter season, exclusively to intermediate-to-advanced (Level 7+) skiers or snowboarders who are involved in private lessons or Guided Experiences with the Aspen Snowmass Ski & Snowboard Schools—or staying in an Aspen Skiing Company lodging property such as The Little Nell, The Limelight, or their residences. Reservations are required at least 24 hours in advance, and participants must meet at the base of the Silver Queen Gondola fully equipped and ready to load at 8:00 a.m. Guests can ask their guide or ski patrol about the famous hidden shrines tucked deep in the glades of Aspen Mountain. These informal, ever-changing shrine sites pay homage to local legends and pop-culture icons, ranging from Elvis Presley, Jerry Garcia, John Denver, Marilyn Monroe, and other entertainers, as well as local community members and personal tributes.
Mountain guides
Join the complimentary Ambassador Tour on Aspen Mountain, offered daily at 11am and 1pm, where knowledgeable local guides lead a free orientation tour of the terrain and mountain history. No advance reservation is required; just meet at the top-of‑gondola Guest Services Center. These tours last around one to two hours, and include expert insights, insider trail tips, and a complimentary beverage. For a personalised introduction or tailored coaching, you can book a private lesson through Aspen Snowmass Ski & Snowboard School or an independent certified instructor. Typical full-day rates for private lessons range from about US $750 to $1,400, depending on season, group size, and specific services included. These lessons may offer priority lift access, ski storage, terrain guidance, and personalised instruction.
- Skiable area: 273 hectares of terrain
- Summit: 3,417 metres
- Grading of runs: 0% Beginner, 48% Intermediate, 26% Advanced, 26% Expert
Snowmass Mountain
Snowmass is the largest of Aspen’s four mountains, located just 20 minutes (13 km) west of town and accessible via free shuttle. With over 3,300 acres of terrain, 98 trails, and 21 lifts, it offers the most varied skiing in the area, highlighted by blue and black groomers off the Big Burn lift. The village vibe is relaxed and family-friendly, making it a less intimidating alternative to Aspen’s high-glamour scene. Base Village continues to evolve, combining luxury with a laid-back atmosphere that appeals to all types of skiers and snowboarders. On-mountain dining is a standout. At Alpin Room, swap ski boots for slippers and settle into alpine-inspired comfort food like tartiflette and braised short rib, paired with a strong California and French wine list. Sam’s, at the top of the Village Express Gondola, serves generous portions of burrata-topped Italian dishes, Grandma-style pizzas, and rotating dessert specials in a lively, scenic setting. Snowmass also boasts the highest concentration of ski-in, ski-out lodging in the Aspen area. Electric Pass Lodge offers stylish 2–3 bedroom residences. Viceroy Snowmass delivers five-star luxury with a Ute-inspired wellness spa and refined dining at Toro Kitchen & Lounge. Meanwhile, Viewline Resort combines slope access with mountain-view suites, live jazz, and an expansive lobby bar.
- Skiable area: 1,351 hectares of terrain
- Summit: 3,813 metres
- Grading of runs: 5% Beginner, 48% Intermediate, 17% Advanced, 30% Expert
Aspen Highlands
Aspen Highlands has cruisy blues and glade-gliding double black runs, with not a green to be seen. The ski area also harbours two of Aspen’s signature experiences, each extreme in their own way. ‘Hiking the [Highland] Bowl’ is peak skiing nirvana on the ‘local’s mountain’. From the top of Loge Peak lift, you hike up to Highland’s 3,777-metre highpoint. It takes about 45 minutes with skis/board on your back. The double black line you choose to ride down will be unforgettable. It is customary to bring up this achievement at a Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro afternoon session. You could run into the likes of Kendall Jenner or Will Ferrel partying at this slope-side bistro. Here, US$175 Veuve Clicquot ‘champagne showers’ are commonplace. The only way down from Cloud 9 is to ski or snowboard, there is no lift access.
- Skiable area: 420 hectares of terrain
- Summit: 3,558 metres
- Grading of runs: 0% Beginner, 23% Intermediate, 12% Advanced, 65% Expert
Buttermilk Mountain
Buttermilk is pigeonholed as a family-friendly green-run dream of forgiving slopes, which in a Colorado context is true. But it also hosts an X Games terrain park, with a killer halfpipe. And a lesser-known network of lively, uncrowded blues and blacks accessed from Tiehack Express.
- Skiable area: 190 hectares of terrain
- Summit: 3,017 metres
- Grading of runs: 35% Beginner, 39% Intermediate, 21% Advanced, 5% Expert
Wine, dine and aprés in the town of Aspen
Arguably, the base of Aspen Mountain’s Silver Queen Gondola is the best place for après. Try truffle fries and a Colorado ale on Ajax Tavern’s patio. Or a caviar flight and bottle of Dom Pérignon at the Little Nell Wine Bar for US$1,100. Aspen’s fine-dining scene is uber-impressive, and there are some new faces on the streets to add to names like Matsuhisa, Prospect and Bosq – which was recently awarded a Michelin star.
PARC Aspen Restaurant
PARC Aspen Restaurant has been receiving rave reviews, with Chef Mark Connell using innovative techniques to create dishes such as cinnamon-smoked elk loin and melt-in-the-mouth braised short ribs, complemented by a world-class wine list.
Stranahan’s Whiskey Lodge
Stranahan’s Whiskey Lodge opened in March 2024. It is in a very cool space and has been a smash hit with its whiskey tastings – have a flight of three or just a wee dram.
The Boat Tow
The Boat Tow is another new restaurant that is rooted in Aspen culture. The restaurant is named after the first lift that was used to tow skiers up the hill from 1937-1946. It was actually a boat, pulled uphill by a cable, and ran until Aspen’s first chairlift opened. You can après all day at The Boat Tow, with cocktails featuring names like ‘Your Next Affair’ and ‘Skiing is the Easy Part’ to sip alongside curried salmon and lamb bolognese. A taste of today with a nod to Aspen’s storied past.
French Alpine Bistro
Decadent lunch favourite French Alpine Bistro has fare as rich as its clientele, and furnishings as eccentric. The raclette, truffle gnocchi-flette and sweet crepes are crowd favourites.
The Aspen Art Museum
The Aspen Art Museum is renowned for its New York-quality exhibitions, its architecture and its Saturday rooftop cafe après.
Eleven212
Perched at 11,212 feet above downtown Aspen beside the Sundeck Restaurant, Eleven212 is Aspen Mountain’s newest outdoor mountaintop venue. Formerly known as Beach Club, it offers craft cocktails, live music, and DJ sets with sweeping views of the Elk Mountains. Accessible by foot or skis, the venue features a curated food and beverage menu, open-air cabins, fire pits with Adirondack chairs, and a merchandise cabin with classic ski sweaters. Entry is free on a first-come, first-served basis, with options for Reserved Seating or Private Cabins for an elevated experience. Eleven212 captures the spirit of après with a nostalgic yet fresh approach to mountain celebration.
Shopping in Aspen
Stoll down Aspen’s Main Street and adjacent avenues to browse the best boutique shops. Downtown offers shopportunities galore to update your ski ensemble with the very latest and greatest.
The Chanel boutique on East Hyman Avenue offers basic black-and-white Chanel-branded skis for US$9,000. And a matte-black, pizza-sized sled for US$10,500. Prada skis are a steal at US$4,000.
For Colorado ranch-style après wear, head to Kemo Sabe. “Proudly helping soccer moms lead double lives since 1990,” says the slogan. Its cowboy/girl hats and boots range from subtle to yee-haw, peaking at US$3,600 for slick caiman skin zip-ups. Browse-worthy bespoke accessories include black bison-leather handbags and an ancient cave bear jaw-handled ornamental knife: US$20,000 by Jake 2 Jake. Browsing downtown consignment stores, such as Susie’s on East Main Street, for that pre-loved Balenciaga bargain, and boutique gallery-hopping are recommended. Galerie Maximillian and Baldwin Gallery are noteworthy.
