Sri Lanka is a jewel of an island where blissful beaches, elephant-packed jungles and ancient ruins unite.
A jewel in the Indian Ocean, the tropical island of Sri Lanka has enticed many a visitor over the years. Formerly known as Helabima and Ceylon, among other names, the island nation has a rich history that stretches back over centuries, with heavy influence from Theraveda Buddhism and shades of Portuguese, Dutch and British heritage from a past coloured by colonial occupation. Languid beaches, lost ruins and a vibrant culture are the hallmarks of this dreamy destination.
This 65,610-square-kilometre island is the Pearl of the Indian Ocean, with a population of 21 million, including Sinhalese, Tamils, Moors, Burghers, Malays and the indigenous Vedda people. Since the end of the civil war in 2009, this ‘Splendid Island’ (as its name may be translated in Sanskrit) has only grown in popularity, offering a tantalising blend of adventure, wildlife, culture, cuisine and history.
Sri Lanka may be small, but the experiences it offers travellers are diverse. Beyond frenetic Colombo, with its blossoming air of cosmopolitanism, there are beaches to the south that lure surfers, jungles that delight those in search of wildlife, riches of Buddhism in Kandy and Hinduism in Jaffna, historic ruins in Sigiriya, colonial remnants in Galle and endless tea-blanketed mountains in the Central Highlands.
As you walk the streets you will be met with a chorus of “Ayubowan” on every corner – not by shopkeepers, but by welcoming locals who simply wish to say hello. After years of hardship, this is a place appreciative of tourism, and the warm people are what truly make a visit memorable.
Colombo
Colombo is a fascinating mix of cosmopolitan chaos and colonial heritage. The capital is a lively, vibrant metropolis. Venture out into historic quarters and newly developed centres of food and art. Take a tuk-tuk tour to see all the highlights, such as the Buddhist temple of Seema Malaka hovering above the water, stores selling spices and overflowing with saris, bustling Pettah Bazaar and Galle Face Green.
Where to stay in Colombo: Uga Residence
Find a pocket of peace at the 150-year-old mansion transformed into an all-suite boutique hotel in the heart Colombo. The former home of Sheikh Salehboy Moosajee was designed for entertaining and has elements of colonial style and reverent Victoriana spread across its 11 suites, chandelier-adorned public spaces and restaurant and bar. The hotel is bathed in the serenity of the surrounding gardens and the nearby lakeside Buddhist temple of Gangarama. It is the perfect base to discover the many sights, contemporary eateries, museums and galleries of Colombo.
Sigiriya
Sigiriya is The World Heritage-listed remains of an ancient civilisation. It is a fortified city and the ruins of King Kashyapa’s seven-storey palace. The incredible rock fortress rises 200 metres above the surrounding rainforest. Climbing Sigiriya is not for the fainthearted, taking about two-and-a-half hours to reach the top via staircases embedded into the rock face. From the top there is sweeping views of Dambulla below and the neighbouring sacred site Pidurangala.
Where to stay in Sigiriya: Uga Ulagalla
Uga Ulagalla is located within 23 hectares of private grounds. Which are home to more than 100 species of birds and borders two reservoirs blooming with lotus flowers and dotted with kumbuk trees. The serene setting is the main draw at this resort. Guests can enjoy nature walks, take one of the hotel’s horses for a gallop, help with the annual rice harvest or simply unwind in private plunge pools.
Kandy
Kandy is a beautiful city with a lake at its heart. Vibrant Kandy is located in the Central Province of Sri Lanka, 500 metres above sea level. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-visit destination for anyone exploring Sri Lanka. Must-visits include the 16th-century Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (one of Buddhism’s most sacred shrines), Kandy Lake, Kandy Market Hall and surrounding tea plantations. From Kandy, you can embark on a train journey through the countryside. There are many places to embark and disembark during the six-hour journey between Kandy and Ella. Bookings in the air-conditioned first-class carriage open 30 days before departure and sell out quickly. To make matters more difficult, you need either a local phone number or to go to the ticket counter in person to book. This is something your travel agent can organise in advance, or you can ride in second class. You’ll pass waterfalls, rice paddies and lush tea plantations as you climb the hills before descending into Ella.
Where to stay in Kandy: The Kandy House
Built in 1804, The Kandy House started life as the residence of a dignitary. Striking in its simplicity – lofty white arches, pillared verandahs and rooms set around a central courtyard. The heritage hotel pays homage to a bygone era with its atypical antiques, hand-woven silks, butler service and sepia photographs. The focus is on seclusion and quiet: situated among paddy fields and bordering tropical jungles. Early risers can enjoy breakfast poolside while overlooking the grazing buffalo and deer in the fields; come evening, diners can savour a 10-course curry feast.
Tea Country
The scenery further inland grows even more striking: mountain ridges covered in swirls of tea bushes cascade into lush valleys home to hidden waterfalls and winding train tracks. The air is cooler, perfect for growing the country’s prized brew. First planted by a pioneering Scotsman in 1867, when the island was a British colony known as Ceylon, tea remains Sri Lanka’s most important agricultural commodity. You can simply drive through this slice of heaven among the clouds or you can stay overnight (or a week) at one of the celebrated luxury lodges. Prepare for colonial indulgence.
Ceylon Tea Trails, Hatton
Relive the Raj era at Ceylon Tea Trails with butler service, afternoon tea and croquet accompanying a stay at one of its restored tea-planter bungalows. The resort stretches across 800 hectares of a working tea plantation, with five historic planters’ bungalows dotted across the landscape.
Decorated in colonial style – claw-foot tubs, outdoor pools and bay windows included – these heritage residences serve ‘bed tea’ in the morning, before guests venture out on excursions to nearby waterholes, further afield to Adam’s Peak and Nuwara Eliya or simply relax on the grounds.
Ashburnham Estate
Ashburnham Estate is a six-bedroom boutique hotel that invites guests to relive the refinement of a bygone era. Ashburnham Estate provides a fascinating glimpse into tea plantations of the 1930s, from its airy interiors to its cooking classes. You can take a tour of the tea plantation and see how the leaves are gathered by hand to ensure the highest quality. Every day at four o’clock, tea and cake is served on the stone-paved verandah of Ashburnham Estate, life doesn’t get much better than this.
Tangalle
Tangalle, where coconut palms meet the sea, was previously just a small fishing town in the Southern Province. It is known for its stunning beaches, a bird sanctuary, Tangalle Market and snorkelling and dive sites. Boulders line the shores of tucked-away beaches, palm trees grow without restraint and fishermen perch on precarious wooden poles in the shallows.
Two hours northeast of Tangalle, you can visit Udawalawe National Park, one of the world’s best places to see elephants in the wild. An hour to the west is Coconut Tree Hill, above beautiful Mirissa Bay, a hotspot during the whale-watching season and a popular site for Instagrammers.
Where to stay in Tangalle: Kayaam House
Kayaam House has just eight stylish rooms and suites. With wellness at its core, you’ll find traditional healing treatments using local herbs and spices and the chance to practice yoga in the outdoor pavilion. The whole family can stay in the Palm Residence which has its own garden and Jacuzzi and a loft the kids will love.
Amanwella
Twelve kilometres outside Tangalle, Amanwella is a contemporary beach resort, secluded away in 14 hectares of coconut grove. Architect Kerry Hill, a long-time Aman collaborator, has clearly been inspired by Sri Lanka’s late, pre-eminent architect, Geoffrey Bawa, and his ‘tropical modernism’ style. The 27 suites all feature six-metre plunge pools, stone walls, floor-to-ceiling glass and folding doors and accents crafted from the kithul palms.
You’ll love the 47-metre main pool overlooking Amanwella’s stretch of private beach. Breakfast is served in the breezy Restaurant, overlooking the pool and the beach beyond, savour traditional coconut rice and delicate curries cooked with ingredients grown on site. Some days begin with yoga on a beachside platform, others with a wander through the nearby village of Wella Wathura, following jungle pathways in search of monkeys and wild deer.
Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort
Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort is a heavenly, indulgent escape with its beautiful pool and surrounding gardens a standout. Hidden away on a rocky outcrop in a secluded stretch of Sri Lankan coastline, the resort exhibits the charm of island life in a setting of coconut plantations and ocean views. Boasting expansive views of the Indian Ocean from its private corner of the island, the resort offers a secluded getaway in a prime beachfront location. There are 152 rooms and villas available, some of which boast their own private plunge pools. Coupled with tennis courts, a poolside bar, a wine cellar and a kids’ and teens club, it’s great for families travelling together.
Ahungalla
Ahungalla is a small coastal town in the Southern Province of Sri Lanka. Head here for pristine beaches and a swathe of luxury resorts. It’s an excellent destination for a serene and picturesque getaway where you can visit turtle hatcheries and take a river cruise down the Madu River.
Where to stay in Ahungalla: Ahu Bay
Perched on Ahungalla Point between two secluded bays, Ahu Bay has a four-room standalone villa, and three, three-bedroom beach villas. Choose the Bay View Suite (pictured above) with views across a tropical garden and your own plunge pool to the turquoise waters of the ocean. Expect rustic interiors with rattan furniture, recycled wood accents and plenty of natural greenery, while a casual all-day restaurant produces fresh dishes using local produce that will take you deep into the Sri Lankan culture.
Yala National Park
The most famous of Sri Lanka’s wildlife reserves, Yala National Park, is on the southeast coast. Home to elephants, monkeys, crocodiles, buffalo and the ever-elusive leopard across 1,268 square kilometres of scrub, forest and grassy plains. Yala National Park has the highest density of leopards in the world. On a jeep tour you can expect to see elephants in abundance, buffalo cooling off in ponds with birds perched on their tusks and mongoose scuttling along grassy plains.
Where to stay in Yala: Wild Coast Tented Lodge
Wild Coast Tented Lodge is one of the closest resorts to the park, spoiling you with a pool overlooking the boulder-strewn beach and colonial expedition-chic Cocoons with four-poster beds and copper bathtubs. Wildlife is the attraction here. The fully inclusive tariff includes a daily game drive into Yala (or a nearby national park during its annual closure).
Where to stay in Yala: Uga Chena Huts
Situated among lush Sri Lankan wilderness, Uga Chena Huts’ guests enjoy detached cabins with private plunge pools, a soothing spa and dining facilities with ocean views. Consisting of 14 cabins across 2.8 hectares, the retreat guarantees privacy and tranquillity. By day, Uga Chena Huts organises tours of Yala National Park.
Galle Fort
Without a doubt, Galle Fort is the historic highlight of the south coast. The fort, separate from the town of Galle, perfectly preserves Sri Lanka’s colonial history, from the Portuguese who built the first earth-and-palisade defence in the 16th century to the Dutch East India Company, which built the coral and granite walls. The British are here in a tower dedicated to Queen Victoria and the cricket ground just beyond the ‘new’ gate. The settlement within the fort is spread over 52 hectares of colourful cafes, gelato bars, art galleries and boutiques selling stunning homewares, with a gabled Dutch church, a mosque and a Buddhist temple tucked in between. You can walk along the old ramparts, either self-guided or accompanied by your private butler. Stop by the gabled roof of the Dutch Reformed Church, the lighthouse and the old spice warehouses before relaxing with locals on the ramparts at sunset. A spot of cricket and a sundowner make for the perfect Sri Lankan send-off.
Take a tuk-tuk 15 minutes south to visit the Japanese Peace Pagoda and secluded Jungle Beach.
Where to stay in Galle: Amangalla
Amangalla is the only five-star hotel within the walled town, located in two 17th-century buildings built as Dutch officers’ barracks. In 1865, it became the New Oriental Hotel before being transformed into the 28-room Aman sanctuary that it is today. The style is pared-back colonial grandeur: polished teak floorboards, window shutters, four poster beds and antique Pettagama chests displaying fine liquo rs. It is the service that really makes the hotel stand out. Butlers help organise spa treatments where a doctor presides over an Ayurvedic experience.
Afternoon tea on the verandah, sumptuous curry dinners in the Dining Room and drinks in the Zaal – where a baby grand piano sings under the fingers of a particularly talented guest – will have you feeling as if you staying in a private home in the days of British Ceylon.
Le Grand Galle Hotel
Le Grand is a one-of-a-kind property located at what is arguably the arts and culture capital of Sri Lanka – Galle. Le Grand Galle Hotel is the definition of a luxurious hotel, offering spectacular views of the Indian Ocean and the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Galle Fort.
Kalkudah
Kalkudah is a tranquil coastal town located in the Eastern Province of Sri Lanka, known for its pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and laid-back atmosphere. You’ll find coral reefs teeming with marine life, forts and excellent bird watching at Batticaloa Lagoon.
Where to stay in Kalkudah: Uga Bay
Consisting of 48 studios in Passikudha Bay, renowned as the best beach in Sri Lanka, Uga Bay is the ultimate laidback beach retreat. Dive famous WWII wrecks, sail on a private catamaran or simply soak up the sun by the pool.
Tirappane
Tirappane is a lesser-known, serene village in the North Central Province. Here, you’ll find a peaceful retreat surrounded by lush greenery and rural village experiences. It is close to Wilpattu National Park, which has a resident leopard population.
Where to stay in Tirappane: Uga Ulagalla
A former chieftain’s abode, Uga Ulagalla features a 150-year-old mansion and 25 private ecologically-built pool villas set across 23 hectares of greenery. Located in the ‘Cultural Triangle’, this escape is close to multiple UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including Sigiriya, Dambulla and Anuradhapura, as well as Wilpattu and Minneriya national parks.
Kuchchaveli
Kuchchaveli is a loveable coastal village on Sri Lanka’s east coast. You’ll spend your day on the beach, exploring the coral reefs of Pigeon Island National Park, whale watching and visiting hot springs.
Where to stay in Kuchchaveli: Uga Jungle Beach
Uniting a blissful beachfront location with verdant jungle, Uga Jungle Beach is comprised of 49 secluded cabins that are an ideal base to explore the historic city of Trincomalee or embark on a whale-watching expedition. Visit nearby temples and other cultural attractions, or simply relax on the three kilometres of untouched private sand.
Balapitiya
Located in the Southern Province, Balapitiya is a small town known for beaches, nature and culture. Here, you can embark on a boat safari on the Madu Ganga, or Madu River. You’ll weave through mangrove forests and islands and float past the Kothduwa Temple.
Where to stay in Balapitiya: Shinagawa Beach Hotel
Situated in one of Sri Lanka’s most bewitching settings, Shinagawa Beach offers guests an experience that will leave them simply spellbound. On a sparkling stretch of sandy beach, the resort offers all the most contemporary of comforts.
The best way to travel in Sri Lanka
The best way to travel in Sri Lanka is with a private driver. These can be booked through your travel agent or Sri Lanka tour specialist. This will give you the opportunity to stop where you want and sample local fruit from roadside stalls, try buffalo curd topped with honey and chat to locals, all with huge smiles. You’ll exchange greetings of ‘Ayubowan’ and wish one another a long life in Sinhala, hands pressed together as if in prayer. Sri Lanka In Style is a Colombo-based partner of Virtuoso that organises private drivers and suggested itineraries.
Getting to Sri Lanka
SriLankan Airlines flies from Singapore to Colombo.
