Set on a 40-hectare Maharaja’s palace in the far reaches of northern India, health retreat Ananda in the Himalayas is truly as close to Nirvana as you can get, writes Cathy Wagstaff.
India awakens all your senses, the spicy aroma of chai brewing and sandalwood incense, the rainbow hues of saris and piles of diamante-studded bracelets, the persistent hoot of car horns, and the high-pitched cry of hawkers selling tchotchkes and pani puri. This was the India, chaotic and colourful in equal measure, that I knew. But high in the Himalayan foothills, I discovered another India. Serene, contemplative and imbued with a sacred stillness.
Ananda in the Himalayas is set above the holy town of Rishikesh and the Ganges River valley, a region long revered as the birthplace of yoga, meditation and Ayurveda. Founded by Ashok Khanna, a veteran of the Oberoi Group and a lifelong student of Eastern philosophies, Ananda was created with a clear purpose. Khanna explains: “To bring together ancient remedies with the deep-rooted wisdom of Indian culture and blend them all with the best of international practices.”
A royal welcome
After a scenic 40-minute drive from Dehradun airport that winds through the foothills of the Himalayas, we ascend the last stretch of road to Ananda. As the car rounds the final bend, Ananda’s cast-iron gates come into view – grand, intricately wrought and timelessly elegant. They swing open slowly, and anticipation builds as the palace appears, perched against a backdrop of mist-veiled mountains.
Once the royal residence of the Maharaja of TehriGarhwal, the palace is now the retreat’s symbolic heart. The guest reception is in a contemporary wing at the rear and blends seamlessly into the heritage surrounds. I’m greeted with a gentle namaste and a fragrant marigold garland. The atmosphere is peaceful and hushed, a soundscape of birdsong and the distant lilt of a flute. I take in the panorama of the Ganges valley below, the pristine stillness of the Himalayan peaks above, and it becomes clear that I have arrived somewhere sacred, somewhere truly extraordinary.
The retreat sprawls across 40 hectares of manicured gardens and ancient sal trees, with only 16 per cent of the land built upon. There are 75 rooms and suites, with the hero, the palatial Viceregal Suite, having hosted dignitaries including the late Lord Mountbatten and King Charles. My Deluxe Valley View Suite has a spectacular outlook over the Ganges and Rishikesh, lit up by shimmering lights at night and shrouded in mist at daybreak.
Holistic in the Himalayas
Before my arrival, I complete a health assessment and speak with an Ayurvedic practitioner to discuss my intentions at the retreat. I choose the Customised Comprehensive Wellness Program, with the goal of grounding myself, releasing tension and exploring deeper healing. My journey begins in consultation with Ayurvedic physician Dr Uniyal, who determines my dosha is predominantly ‘pitta’ – one of the three body-energy types in Ayurveda practice, which govern metabolism, digestion and transformation. He tells me I am prone to be intelligent, driven, ambitious, sharp minded and impatient. In addition, I learn my body is too acidic. We discuss adjusting my diet to become more alkaline and explore a yogic nasal cleansing technique, jala neti, as a natural alternative to the sinus surgery I had been considering.
Days of discovery
Each day unfolds with purpose. Mornings begin with yoga and mantra chanting on an open deck facing the mountains. There are lectures on Vedanta philosophy, nature walks, sound healing sessions and Ayurvedic talks. The food is as considered as the treatments; I meet with the chef to tailor meals to my dosha – light, warm and plant based. Each day brings a new menu featuring seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, with no artificial additives. I learn that food should be eaten within two hours of preparation, and not to combine multiple proteins in one meal for optimal digestion. One night, I dine under the stars, enjoying delicate cuminscented greens and lentil dhal, accompanied by herbal tea spiced just enough to warm the soul. The elegant dining pavilion with yantric decor and a sunny treetop deck becomes one of my favourite places to journal.
Treatments are immersive and grounding. Abhyanga, which is a full-body warm oil massage, and Shirodhara, where a steady stream of oil flows across the forehead, bring deep relaxation. Sneha Vasti, an Ayurvedic oil enema therapy, is considered the king of treatments and a must for all guests.
During a powerful emotional healing session, I work with a practitioner to explore subconscious patterns. We craft a personalised mantra to dissolve old fears and strengthen inner resolve. It brings to mind a quote from Socrates I have pinned to my computer. “The secret to change is to focus all of your energy, not on fighting the old, but on building the new.” As I close a significant chapter of my life and step into the unknown, this wisdom resonates deeply and I learn to embrace life’s inevitable changes with grace, intention and a renewed sense of self.
Courtesy of Ananda in the Himalayas
The International Yoga Festival
In Rishikesh, the International Yoga Festival, held in March each year, is in full swing. Drawing yogis and enthusiasts from around the world, it encompasses a week of classes, cultural performances and spiritual lectures on the banks of the sacred Ganges River. The Beatles’ Ashram, officially the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram, gained fame after the Fab Four studied transcendental meditation here in 1968. Now, it is a graffiti-adorned tourist attraction.
As I prepare to leave, I reflect on skills I have learnt that will enrich my life, physically, emotionally and spiritually. And for this I am full of gratitude to all the wonderful practitioners. As a parting gift, the chef hands me a folder of recipes I loved – a thoughtful gesture that seals the care I’ve felt all week.
Ananda in the Himalayas is more than a retreat, it is a place to heal – and for anyone navigating change, as I was, it offers a sanctuary in which to build the new.
Ananda’s innovations in wellness
- Pioneering integrated healing practices
In recent years, Ananda has made significant strides in enhancing its wellness offerings. The expanded approach incorporates traditional Chinese medicine, physiotherapy and emotional healing, creating a comprehensive healing ecosystem and wellness experience. - Enhancing women’s health
Ananda’s dedication to holistic care has led to ground-breaking work in women’s health in areas such as fertility, menopause and menstrual health, addressing crucial aspects of well-being that are often overlooked in traditional wellness programs. - Tackling modern lifestyle challenges
Responding to the growing tide of lifestyle-related health concerns, Ananda has developed targeted programs to address chronic ailments such as diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, chronic respiratory issues, sleep disorders and skin conditions. - Spiritual awareness and immersion
Ananda has enhanced its offerings to deepen guests’ spiritual experiences including sound healing practices, mantra chanting, and expanded spiritual studies with specialised workshops that incorporate wisdom from ancient traditions. - Personalised wellness journeys
Ananda has made noteworthy advancements in elevating its wellness offerings. In 2024, the retreat underwent a significant digital transformation with a 360° wellness management system. This innovation allows for more personalised and evidence-based wellness journeys.
Founder Ashok Khanna’s daughter and Executive Director, Ananda in the Himalayas, Aashica Khanna, says, “What has really changed in a big way is the depth and focus of what we offer now. Today, our programs are comprehensive and deeply immersive, with stays lasting between two weeks and sometimes two months. Diagnostics have become a core part of our approach to ensure that our offerings are evidence-based and outcome-driven. What I am most proud of is how we have extended our role in our clients’ wellness journeys. With year-round consultations and follow-ups, we have moved beyond being just a retreat to becoming an integral part of their well-being process.”
